Sunday, December 7, 2014

Birthday Jacket: A Review of Waffle Patterns Cookie Zip Blouson


I asked for this pattern for my birthday back in June. My mom was nice enough to make all of my birthday dreams come true and kindly got it for me. 

I was raring to go when I received it in my email and quickly printed it, checked my measurements against the pattern, cut it out and sewed it up nearly completely. I got to where I could try it on to check the fit in the arms/back (where I usually have issues) and was quickly disappointed. The armholes were super low – to the point where when I raised my arms the entire jacket went with them. Ugh.

So it sat on my dress form while I ruminated about what to do to salvage it. For 6 months.

I wasn't sure if I should just take it in under the arm? Did I need to add a gusset for movement? As with all of my procrastinations, I should have just tried something instead of letting it sit there for so long – humming and hawing – not wanting to make a mistake or god forbid do something more than once.

In the end I just took it in under the arm... a lot. About 3/4" added to the seam line. If I make it again, I'll move the armhole up in the standard way on the flat pattern.


In the end, I like it. I didn't spend a lot on it and used fabrics from my stash (which is why I didn't make   a muslin first). The plaid is from a second hand store for probably $6 for 3 metres or something. and the "ribbing" is a sweater knit fleece left over from my cat halloween costume.

If I do make it again:
1. Take it in on the side seams. It's quite wide and feels a little big.
2. Raise the under arm before I cut it out.
3. Make the sleeves a little shorter.
4. Use an actual ribbing and maybe make the cuffs and bottom ribbing a little more snug. I'm not sure if it's loose because of the pattern or because of the fleece I used for this iteration.
5. Add a lining: this is mentioned in the instructions, but there are no pattern pieces.
6. Use regular zippers. I was all freaked up about finding the exact length of zip for the front and could only find it in a chunky weight – which was fine, but then installing the pocket zips in the same weight was kind of a nightmare.
7. Add a lining.




The insides:

My review on PR: 

Pattern Description:
*Zipper blouson with 2 pockets
*Round shape yoke
*Knit fabric on cuffs, collar and hem
*Raglan type gathered long sleeve
*Gather on back and front bodice
<b>Pattern Sizing:</b>

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Very good instructions. She includes instructions for both lined and unlined with finished edges and there's an online tutorial for the lining <a href="http://tmblr.co/ZsHgpt1PwAycv" target="_blank">here</a>: 

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
The armhole was much, much too low for practical arm movement.

Fabric Used:
From my stash: poly woven plaid and left over knit sweater fleece from a different project. 

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
After first fitting, I took in the sides 3/4" which effectively raised the armhole enough for decent arm movement. This also took in the sleeves which were a little too "blouson" for my taste.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I probably will at some point with the following changes:
1. Take it in on the side seams. It's quite wide and feels a little big.
2. Raise the under arm before I cut it out.
3. Make the sleeves a little shorter. 
4. Use an actual ribbing and maybe make the cuffs and bottom ribbing a little more snug. I'm not sure if it's loose because of the pattern or because of the fleece I used for this iteration.
5. Add a lining: this is mentioned in the instructions, but there are no pattern pieces. 
6. Use regular zippers. I was all freaked up about finding the exact length of zip for the front and could only find it in a chunky weight – which was fine, but then installing the pocket zips in the same weight was kind of a nightmare. 
7. Add a lining.

Yes, please someone else make this. It's so cute and easy to sew. 

Conclusion:
It's a cute little jacket that's a little different than the traditional bomber style. 



More pics, but this time with horrible shitty shit-ass lighting!
You can see here that the sleeves are a touch long and it's maybe just a little bit big in the sides.



That's all folks!