Saturday, April 5, 2014

Pattern Testing the Winter Street Dress

I have always wanted to be a pattern tester, and this last month I got my wish twice. Both lovely makes and this is the first of them.

The Winter Street Dress





I've said it before, and I'll say it again: "I don't wear a lot of dresses". Sitting in an office all day with a bunch of dudes that are 8+ years my senior doesn't inspire trying in the fashion department. I wore this on a day that I had a meeting. It's super comfortable and I can see wearing it in the next few months as the weather warms up. 

The fabric is a very stable knit that I found at a church basement sale for something like $2 or $3 for about 3 metres. There were a number of flaws in it but this dress doesn't take a tonne of fabric so I was able to cut around. It was originally slated to become a bomber jacket, but I'm glad to have it as a dress.

I made the size XS according to my measurements. This pattern is true to size and my adjustments reflect my usual changes and those that were expected considering it is drafted for a larger cup size.


Fitting:

1. First off, this pattern is made for a much larger bust than I was blessed with. That translated into too much fabric from arm pit to armpit. I did your basic sba for a non-darted front.
2. My usual broad back adjustment. I've shown two methods I use depending on how much I have to add. I used the second method in this case and added 5/8".

3. I added back 3/8" to the side seam on the front under the arm tapering to nothing at the waist. 

Pattern Changes:

1. Flounces don't really fit into my lifestyle. I love how they look on Deepika's polka dot version, but try as I might, I'm not that girly. So, I lengthened the sleeve to 3/4 length by extending the sleeve seam lines by 3 5/8". 

2. Pockets! I traced around my hand to get the shape and sewed them into the side seams. They are two big and the openings are a touch too small. I'll correct that on my next version. 

3. Neckband: I made mine 3/4" wide. 


Changes for next time:

1. The waist on this is too high for me and thus the length is a bit short. It's still wearable and the fabric disguises it a bit, but it's throws my innate OCD spidy senses out of whack. I can probably add two inches, which after talking to Deepika about it, makes total sense since she is a petite and I am not. The dress I made for my mom a while back had to have a petite adjustment made to it which was just about that same amount. 

2. Make pocket changes as above. 



Conclusion:

Super comfortable. I can eat in this dress. I have never been a fan of the tulip shaped skirt for myself, but I love it here. I want to make another with a cap sleeve, or sleeveless. Hell, I could even give the back a more racer-back shape if I was going sleeveless. So many options!! In my mind, it's not just a winter dress. It should be called "Super Comfortable, Easy to Sew, Super Great Dress". 







17 comments:

  1. I like this dress and how you positioned the wavy stripe. Looks very comfortable. I appreciated the fitting demos also.

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  2. This is such a super dress! You look great in it! Thanks for the info on the small bust adjustment. I have been tackling that one lately.

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  3. Great dress! You need more dresses in your wardrobe. This one is super cute and comfortable. Plus you don't have to match tops and bottoms.

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  4. Very nice! I love the racing stripe!

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  5. SUPER CUTE! I love the fabric, especially how you matched the swirl from skirt to bodice. Looks like a fun make! (But then, I'm in a dresses phase these days... ;) )

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  6. YES! So cute. And that fabric is just yummy. Love it with tights and boots.

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  7. Love the fabric and the way you styled it, with the boots, etc. Great job and thank you so much!

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  8. Fabulous dress,and that SBA/broad back adjustment is going to come in very handy since I have the same issues. Thank you!

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    1. The Slapdash Sewist (Trena) has similar issues as does A Fashionable Stitch (Sunni). I have found great alteration tutorials on both of their sites.

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  9. Great looking dress! Love the thinking. Did you put together the SBA/back adjustment diagrams? I'm linkin' to you for this!

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    1. Yes. I have Illustrator and quickly drew these up. I posted them as transparent gifs so they view funny when you click to enlarge them, but I'll fix that soon. Feel free to link, steal, copy or repost my pattern alteration illustrations.

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    2. I'm going to link to your page. Dang fine work making it simple!

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  10. Yeah Saskatoon! Thanks for the post.

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    1. HI Janet, If you are ever interested for a meet-up/pattern swap/coffee email me! My email is under my facebook badge on the right side.

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  11. I have seen this in your closet and now that I see it on you...wow. Looks really comfortable. Fits you really well. I love this dress on you!

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  12. This is so cute on you! Such a versatile dress.

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